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Те, кто выращивает помидоры, часто сталкиваются с этим злейшим врагом огородника. Имя её- фитофтора. Как правило, она атакует помидоры   в конце лета – начале осени, когда жара спадает, ночи становятся прохладнее, а утро с холодными росами. Всеядный и вездесущий грибок способен в считанные дни уничтожить весь урожай. В ход идут различные ядохимикаты, но сие не лучший выход из положения, поскольку они при этом попадают в нашу организму вмести с поедаемыми плодами, что не есть хорошо.

Как точно установили учёные, заражение происходит лишь в том случае, если споры грибка попадают на влажный лист. Если влага успеет испариться мене чем за 2 часа, то споры погибают. В противном случае они прорастают внутрь ткани листа через «дыхательные устьица», которые можно сравнить с кожными порами человеческой кожи.

Исследователи не могут точно сказать, почему не все представители пасленовых восприимчивы к грибковой инфекции. Например, перец, физалис, дурман и другие представители семейства никогда не поражаются фитофторой. Если предположить родовую предрасположенность, то картофель и томаты относятся к разным родам, однако обе культуры страдают от этой напасти.

Немецкими учёными запатентован метод обматывания корней рассады перед высадкой в грунт медной проволокой. У нас же на Русях используется древний дедовский способ, проверенный веками- протыкание стебля томата медной проволочкой.

Суть метода до «безобразия» проста:

  • Берётся медная проволока диаметром 1 мм, проще и лучше всего использовать монтажный одножильный провод, но в принципе можно и любой другой. Снимаем с него ножом ПВХ оболочку.
  • Проволоку тщательно зачищаем до блеска от изоляции наждачной бумагой, либо ножом. Нарезаем её кусками по 4 см.
  • Если проволока тоньше 1 мм, то сначала делаем прокол куста шилом или иголкой, а потом вставляем в полученный разрез провод.
  • За две недели до высадки рассады в грунт втыкаем медный отрезок поперек томатного куста, как бы прошивая его, чуть ниже первого настоящего листочка( примерно на расстоянии 10 см от почвы). «Усики» проволоки загибаем вниз параллельно кустику. Если проволока тоньше 1 мм, то сначала делаем прокол куста шилом или иголкой, а потом вставляем в полученный разрез провод.
  • Если по каким-либо причинам не удалось осуществить эту операцию до высадки в грунт, не беда. Это можно проделать и после, но не ранее двух недель после высадки по причине, указанной ниже.
  • Можно ли применить этот метод, если все приведённые сроки прошли? Да, можно! Вплоть до момента завязывания плодов. Эффект, конечно будет ниже, но он всё равно будет, хотя потери урожая тоже будут, но несравненно меньше, чем если это не делать вообще.  

Внимание!

  • Почему эту операцию надо проводить именно за две недели до высадки или через две недели после неё? Дело в том, что при пересадке растения испытывают сильный стресс. Медная «иглотерапия» — это тоже стресс, но за две недели нанесенные ранки зарубцуются, и томатные кусты адаптируются после этой операции. 
  • Такую процедуру делают только тогда, когда стебель томата станет прочным!
  • Не в коем случае не обматывайте проволоку вокруг стебля! Это ровным счётом ничего не даст, но будет в дальнейшем тормозить рост и развитие куста томата, а в дальнейшем и его плодов.

Предлагаю Вашему вниманию статью о том «КТО ЕСТЬ КТО» фитофлора, что это за зверь и как с ним бороться. Приводятся видео с практическими рекомендациями, как всё это делать.

Медная проволока от фитофторы – надежная профилактика заболевания

1. Коротко о фитофторах и как с ними борются

Фитофтора – грибковое заболевание растений, которое насчитывает не менее 40 видов. Распространена абсолютно во всех частях света, исключение составляют только районы вечной мерзлоты. Даже когда нет природной растительности, фитофтора может проникнуть в закрытые теплицы вместе с подвергшимися заражению саженцами или семенами. Споры этого грибка крайне живучи, зимуют в почве, сохраняясь при очень низких температурах в семенах, обрывках стеблей и корнях растений, которые остались после уборки. С наступлением весны, когда температура достигает +10 оC, они начинают весьма активно размножаться. Потоки воды после дождей и верхнего полива разносят их от одних посадок и грядок к другим.

Фитофтора поражает все растения, принадлежащие семейству пасленовых:

  • томаты;
  • картофель;
  • перец;
  • баклажаны;
  • другие.

Фото фитофторы у томата, moyadacha.net

Подвержены ей и иные культуры: гречиха, клещевина, земляника. Наиболее губительно фитофтора воздействует на томаты – за несколько дней она может уничтожить весь урожай помидоров. В то же время именно фитофторозом томаты заболевают чаще всего. Все это обусловило то, что у огородников-любителей, выращивающих помидоры, главный вопрос – как бороться с появившейся фитофторой и какие меры для ее профилактики принимать. Первый сигнал заражения фитофторами – появление пятен бурого цвета на листьях, в основном по краям. Образование темных полос на стебле, как правило, предвещает скорое появление серебристых или бурых пятен на плодах.

На фото - фитофтора на помидорах, atmagro.ru

Главное средство в противостоянии фитофторе – профилактика. В первую очередь необходимо исключить проявление всех факторов, провоцирующих развитие этого заболевания. Профилактические меры включают:

  • Правильную посадку и уход за томатами
  • Правильные укрытие и полив
  • Укрепление иммунитета помидоров грамотной подкормкой
  • Профилактическое опрыскивание специальными химическими составами, фунгицидами, нехимическими растворами (в том числе народными средствами).

2. Воздействие меди на растения и томаты

Медь входит в состав растительных организмов, участвует в процессах их внутреннего обмена веществ, играя выраженную важную биологическую роль – являясь для них, таким образом, необходимым микроэлементом. Количественное содержание меди в растениях мало, но она не только оказывает общее благоприятное воздействие на процессы развития и роста, но также специфическое влияние на важнейшие физиологические составляющие их жизнедеятельности – например, фотосинтез.

Фото меди, pro-kamni.ru

Этот микроэлемент входит в состав некоторых важных ферментов, участвующих в окислительно-восстановительных реакциях, и выполняет специфически значимую роль ускорения протекания последних. В растениях медь оказывает большое влияние на образование хлорофилла, его стабилизацию и предохранение от разрушения, а также усиливает выработку витамина С, белков, жиров, углеводов, улучшает формирование корневой и стеблевой систем, органов плодоношения. В случае недостаточного содержания этого микроэлемента в среде произрастания организмы развиваются плохо, содержание хлорофилла в них снижается, их органы могут бледнеть и отмирать. Недостаток меди часто приводит к заболеванию растений. При слабовыраженном дефиците этого микроэлемента задерживается рост и снижается урожай, в случае сильного – растительные культуры гибнут.

Таким образом, содержание меди в растениях и среде произрастания имеет для их полноценного, здорового развития и плодоношения очень большое значение. Это обусловило то, что различные удобрения и химические составы с медью – одни из наиболее эффективных средств профилактики фитофтороза и борьбы с ним.

 3. Использование медной проволоки для профилактики фитофтороза

Медь рекомендуют использовать не только для удобрения помидоров, но и в качестве подвязки кустов, применяя проволоку из этого металла. Наибольший эффект достигается, когда медной проволокой протыкают стволик каждого растения. Хорошо зарекомендовал себя метод, запатентованный немецкими учеными – корни рассады томатов перед высадкой в почву обматывают медной проволокой. При этом используют изделия диаметром 0,5 мм длиной 50 см. Еще применяют способ подкладывания на почву под каждый отдельный кустик томата медной пластинки. Во всех случаях изделия из этого металла должны быть очищены от изоляции или каких-либо загрязнений.

На фото - медь под кустом помидор, dacha.wcb.ru

Поперечное протыкание стеблей кустов помидоров медной проволокой является наиболее эффективным из перечисленных способов защиты от фитофторы. Этот метод широко известен на всем земном шаре и его действенность имеет многочисленные подтверждения по результатам практического применения. Многие из тех, кто не один год использует медную проволоку для борьбы именно с фитофторозом, утверждают, что после подобной профилактической обработки помидоров отпадает необходимость в применении каких-либо других способов, в том числе химических.

На фото - защита от фитофторы медной проволокой, ucoz.ru

Действие этого метода объясняется следующим образом. Внутри растения от корней вверх по стеблю непрерывно течет сок. Он содержит в себе соли, другие вещества и фактически является слабым электролитом, который, омывая медную проволоку и взаимодействуя с ней, насыщается ионами меди. Благодаря естественному распространению сока в растении эти ионы разносятся по всему кусту, насыщая медью все его части, что приводит к благоприятным процессам, описанным выше, и способствует повышению стойкости томата к фитофторозу.

4. Практическое применение медной проволоки для борьбы с фитофторозом

Протыкание необходимо сделать до или после пересаживания кустов на участок, но ни в коем случае во время. В обеих случаях промежуток времени должен составлять две недели. Это обусловлено тем, что пересадка и медная «иглотерапия» – сильный стресс для растения, совмещать которые лучше не стоит. А за две недели томат успевает адаптироваться к новым условиям либо зарубцовываются его раны, нанесенные проволокой.

У окрепшей, выросшей, но не высаженной в грунт рассады медную проволоку втыкают в стебель чуть ниже 1-го настоящего листочка. Если помидоры уже пересажены на участок, адаптировались и окрепли после этого, то провод вставляют на расстоянии от окученной вокруг куста земли 40–50 мм. Если лето слишком дождливое, проволоку следует устанавливать на высоте 90–100 мм.

Этот способ подпитки томатов медью отличает высокая экологичность – не надо беспокоится о возможном насыщении помидоров химикатами. Кроме того, ионы меди постоянно поступают в растение и не смываются дождями, как при использовании каких-либо составов.

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